Day Three - To be a pilgrim

What a day. I’m pretty shattered (although it’s only about 8pm) and writing this from my tent while Mojo grazes a few metres away over the wall.

Yesterday was tiring for us and the horses, so we had a last minute change of plan that evening. Instead of getting up early and meeting the walkers at Hawnby at 8.30am, we had a very civilised breakfast at Easterside before starting out at about 10am. Then it was down the incredibly steep lane to Hawnby church, and a quick stop for me to stamp my passport and for both of us to have a look at the beautiful artwork on display in the church.

We took the scenic route down to Old Byland, with the mizzle clearing into another nice day - no breeze this time though, so we were getting warm! The lanes around Hawnby are incredibly steep, but given that the horses had already walked a long way, it was easier on them than the varied and often difficult terrain of the bridleways. The view out from Murton Grange was spectacular, so we had a quick pause to appreciate it (along with a few motorbikes and cyclists) before heading on.

Progress was steady, but after Old Byland we managed to catch George and the team at Cold Kirby for a drink and a break. The horses slept in the churchyard while we ate a quick lunch.

The afternoon was sunny and we bumped into David Sanderson at the stepping stones before Rievaulx, part way round his epic all day run of the whole 41 mile walking route. While he headed off up the hill, Janet took Mojo’s rope and splashed through the stream so I could keep my feet dry on the stepping stones.

We made good time into Rievaulx, where there was a general air of organised chaos - as Janet commented, probably just like a pilgrimage in Aelred’s time! Walkers were arriving from all directions and congregating at the Abbey.

We processed into the nave of the Abbey as one big column, with the horses settled down to graze through the service at the side of the church. The sun shone, Bilsdale Silver Band played, and I had a wobbly moment and had to wipe my eyes when I looked around at all the people who had made it possible for us to be here. Aelred wrote a lot about friendship and I’m certain that he would have approved. 

After the service Janet and Scout headed home with the trailer, and I tackled the two miles to the campsite with a very forlorn Mojo in tow, shrieking for Scout for at least a mile. I think he may have deafened a local delivery driver who passed us with his window down in prime position for particularly loud blast! Thankfully the peace at Bungdale Head, and the field full of grass next to the campsite, seem to have him settled in for the night. 

Tomorrow morning looks grey but dry, with rain coming in later, so I’m getting an early night and (hopefully) an early start for the walk back to Helmsley tomorrow.